What Are The Different Types of Gemstone Settings?

Which is the best gemstone setting to choose for my jewellery?

There are a variety of different types of stone setting in jewellery design, we’ll explore some of the most popular options available and the pros and cons of different stone settings to find out which is the best for you.

Bezel / Rub-Over Setting

A bezel or rub (rub-over) setting is a popular choice for cluster (Raindance-inspired) rings or engagement rings as it is a modern but secure way of setting diamonds and gemstones. Each diamond /stone is held securely in place with a strip of metal that fully or partially encircles the diamond. It creates a smooth finish, hence the term rub / rub-over.

Beautiful blue topaz and diamond legacy ring bezel (rub-over) settings.

A stunning aquamarine, sapphire and diamond pendant featuring rub-over settings

Bezel / Rub-Over Setting Pros and Cons

Pros: The major benefits with a bezel/ rub setting are that the diamonds are held more securely than that of a claw / prong setting. This setting is more suitable if you lead an active or busy lifestyle as it is less likely to damage or come loose. While bezels are commonly used for round diamonds, they can be set with any diamond shape.

Cons: As the bezel setting encases the diamond with a thin rim of metal, it can make the diamonds appear smaller. It also lets less light pass through the diamond which can make its brilliance less impactful.

Claw-Setting

Claw settings are a traditional and delicate setting, commonly used on engagement rings. A claw setting is a classic way of securing a diamond or gemstone, where a number of claws or prongs hold the diamond or gemstone in place.

Fabulous oval diamond ring featuring claw- settings

Diamond and emerald Legacy ring with claw-set marquise diamonds

Claw-Setting Pros and Cons

Pros: A claw setting lets in the most possible amount of light giving maximum sparkle! Since the maximum surface area of diamond is visible with a claw /prong it allows the maximum amount of light to pass through the gemstone, providing ultimate glamour.

Cons: On rare occasions the prongs can snag on clothing or furniture. Overtime the prongs can loosen or catch and bend out of place, so need to be examined every 4-6 months to check for any weaknesses or signs of wear.

Channel-Setting

A channel-set ring features small diamonds or other gemstones which are set in a secure channel within the metal band of the ring. The grooves on both walls hold the diamonds securely in place.

This stunning design features two channels of diamonds with a central marquise diamond

An impressive Legacy design, featuring a central band of channel-set emerald-cut diamonds

Channel-Setting Pros and Cons

Pros: The advantages of a channel setting are that the diamonds / gemstones are held very securely in the channel and are highly unlikely to fall out or move.

Cons: Gemstones in a channel setting are more difficult to clean as dirt can build up at the edges of the channel. As with the bezel setting, more of the diamond is covered by the lip of the channel, which can affect the visibility and brilliance of the diamonds.

Grain-Setting

Similar to that of channel settings, the diamonds or gemstones sit snuggly side by side, but have little prongs or beads to hold each stone in place. There are usually no gaps between the diamonds, creating a truly sparkling diamond encrusted appearance.

This beautiful ring features a halo of grain set diamonds, a truly dazzling, show-stopping piece!

A gorgeous Raindance-inspired Legacy ring with grain-set diamond bands.

Grain-Setting Pros and Cons

Pros: As with claw-settings, more of the gemstones are visible and the beads holding the diamonds create a truly sparkling effect.

Cons: A grain-setting creates more nooks and crevices which can cause a buildup of dirt making it more difficult to clean.

Illusion-Setting

An illusion setting holds the diamond in place using the daintiest of bright-cut prongs, which blend in with the cut of the diamond to create the illusion of a larger stone. This type of setting is commonly used with engagement and eternity rings.

Stunning diamond ring with illusion claw settings

Illusion-Set Pros and Cons

Pros: As the prongs holding the diamond in place are bright-cut (meaning sharp and angular) to match the facets of the diamond, it makes the diamond appear larger, meaning you can save on the price of the diamond, without compromising on size.

Cons: The actual setting is more intricate and time-consuming to make as it requires more detail and precision, this can push the cost up but also means waiting a little longer for your jewellery to be made.

Cluster Illusion-Setting

A cluster illusion setting creates the appearance of a larger diamond, by setting small individual diamonds close together or shoulder-to-shoulder.

This ring has been astutely designed with four princess cut diamonds set side-by-side to create the appearance of one large diamond.

Cluster Illusion-Set Pros and Cons

Pros: Setting diamonds shoulder-to-shoulder creates the illusion of a larger diamond and creates an impressive finish.

Cons: Whilst the diamonds appear bigger, the fact remains that the individual stones are smaller and of somewhat lower value than that of a single diamond of the same size.

Milgrain-Setting

The word “milgrain” comes from the French meaning a thousand grains for the effect of the tiny grains around or along the edge of the gemstone or band. Similar to that of the rub-over setting, it is a modern but secure way of setting diamonds and gemstones but with an added grain detailing.

A stunning Raindance-inspired design featuring milgrain settings

A beautiful Legacy design featuring milgrain settings on the central gold band

Milgrain-Setting Pros and Cons

Pros: Milgrain settings can add a touch of additional personality to a design, setting it apart, or elevating the uniqueness of the design and gemstones. Milgrain can also give the illusion of additional sparkle without extra cost.

Cons: Similar to grain-setting, milgrain edging creates more nooks and crevices which can cause a buildup of dirt making it more difficult to clean. Milgrain can also wear over time.

To find out more about the different types of settings and what may work well for your jewellery, please speak to a member of our expert team who will be happy to discuss your thoughts and ideas and answer any questions you may have.